Bad news for 30-something grandmas — restaurants want you to eat after 9pm

A group of friends eating and drinking at a restaurant, with a neon pink 'open' sign flashing in the background
Restaurants want to stay open late… (Picture: METRO / Getty)

I’ve always been quite particular about dinner time. You won’t catch me eating before 5pm, but if food isn’t on the table by 8pm, I’ll start getting anxious.

Europe’s love for late night dining then, is baffling to me. While I’m in my pyjamas, ready to curl up with a good book, diners in Spain could be tucking into tapas as late as 11pm.

If like me, you too are a bit of a 30-something grandma, and the very idea leaves you feeling fatigued (and bloated), you might want to brace yourself: London is looking to get a little more European, with late-night dining on the rise.

Glimpse of Andalusia
Late dining is popular in European countries like Spain (Picture: Getty Images)

A whole host of late-night restaurants have cropped up around central London over the last few months, including Noodle & Beer, which launched its second location in March. The new Chinatown hotspot is open until 4am from Thursday to Saturday, with last orders at 3:30am.

Founder Xiaoxiao Wang is firmly of the opinion that ‘the later everything can stay open, the better’ and says extended opening hours have meant Noodle & Beer has been able to attract a ‘whole new pool of customers’, who are ‘a younger, European and international crowd’.

27 Old Compton Street, a quick service pasta restaurant, also set up shop in Soho last month, dishing up the likes of cacio e pepi and black crab tortelloni until midnight on Mondays, Tuesdays Wednesdays and Sundays, and until 1am on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. 

Nima Safaei, the owner and executive chef, told Metro that ‘late night hunger is very much alive’ and the trend is being fueled by hybrid office workers on weekdays, who want to make the most of their time in the city.

He explained: ‘From Tuesday to Thursday between 11pm and midnight, we see a steady stream of office workers, many of whom are only in town a few days a week now. But into the weekend, Soho changes with the streets filling up with people looking to make the most of their night.’

Eran Tibi, the founder and executive chef of Kapara (James Court, Soho) and Bala Baya (Southbank) is also keen to jump on the trend.

‘We have seen that there is a genuine market for customers that want to eat and drink later, particularly as we come into long summer days, and we feel the importance of attracting these customers,’ he told Metro. ‘We’re currently exploring a drinks and food package for after 9pm until 1am.’

Restaurants are attempting to entice customers to be ‘night owls’ with discounts and deals.

Jeremy King, who is behind iconic spots like The Ivy, is leading the pack by offering a 25% discount for late night diners at The Park in Queensway, and the Arlington in Mayfair.

Writing in his newsletter, Jeremy said: ‘I am determined to capture back the night and encourage people to re-acquaint themselves with sitting down to dinner after 9pm.’

Humble Grape, which has several wine bars and restaurants across London, has also just announced it’s going to be offering guests who dine during ‘off-peak’ hours up to 30% off their food, if they booked their table via SevenRooms.

Looking for other late night spots in London?

While late night dining might be about to boom in the city, it’s not a new thing for London, with the city already being home to several spots open until the early hours. Here’s a look at a few others you can visit for dinner after 9pm…

Polo Bar, Bishopsgate

Polo Bar, opposite Liverpool Street station, is a 24-hour café that’s open around the clock, serving up all day breakfasts with classic fry ups, eggs benedict, sandwiches and pancakes, as well as omelettes, burgers, pies, cakes and various other sweet treats.

Bloodsports, Endell Street

The ‘watching bar’ created by the team behind MEATliquor has combined sports, horror movies, burgers and karaoke to create the unique spot near Covent Garden and Sevendials. It’s open until 2am every day, with the kitchen closing at 1:30am. As well as a blood-themed drinks menu, customers can also order classic Meatliquor burgers such as the Dead Hippie, as well as new items like ‘The Ripper’ – a hotdog wrapped in bacon and deep fried.

Duck & Waffle, Bishopsgate

Another popular spot that’s open 24/7 throughout the week, Duck & Waffle boasts impressive views of the city thanks to its position on the 40th floor of 110 Bishopsgate and its floor-to-ceiling windows. The late night menu is served from midnight to 5:30am and features dishes such as the iconic Duck & Waffle (crispy duck leg confit, a fried duck egg and mustard maple syrup on a waffle), a duck smoked sausage hot dog, truffle grilled cheese, and a breakfast butty.

Balans No. 60, Old Compton Street

Balans has been a late-night Soho staple since the 80s, initially staying open late for the rave scene. The very first late shift saw the café serve just one 55p coffee, but they’ve come a long way since then. The site at 60-62 Old Compton Street is now open most days until 6am, only closing for a few hours briefly between 6am and 9am. After midnight customers can order a late night breakfast, with options including Lobster Benedict, Full Engish, French Toast and American Pancakes. Alternatively, there are burgers, mac & cheese, curries and fish and chips.

Chef Nima, who also owns 64 Old Compton Street and 40 Dean Street, believes many of our favourite London restaurants want to stay open into the wee hours, saying: ‘Once the pubs start closing their doors, there’s a noticeable shift: people aren’t ready to call it a night. That’s what 27 is for.’

But restaurants won’t simply be able to fill the hole left by early last orders. The same late night licensing issue plaguing Soho bars and pubs, which has seen tourists and residents alike claim the area is ‘dying’, will effect eateries too.

‘The red tape is a real challenge,’ he says. ‘Soho used to be electric around the clock, but with new government initiatives that affect hospitality, it’s being chipped away at. Licenses are harder to come by, and it feels like the soul of the area is at risk. 

‘What we need now is support from the council and the city itself to protect what makes places like Soho so iconic. Otherwise, we risk turning the lights off on what should be a 24/7 cultural hub.’ 

A group of women eating food late at night at a restaurant
Chefs claim there’s a real ‘hunger’ for late night dining (Picture: Getty Images)

Support might come sooner than Nima realises though, as the mayor of London, Sadiq Khan, has recently been granted greater power over licensing by the government, as part of a new pilot scheme.

This means the mayor will be able to overrule council decisions on late licensing applications for pubs, bars and restaurants, so they can operate outside of standard hours.

He’s also thought to be looking into introducing more al-fresco dining in the city — another very European dining trend.

Sadiq said: ‘I am delighted that the Government is looking to grant London greater powers over licensing.

‘This significant decision would allow us to do more to support the capital’s pubs, clubs, music venues and other parts of the visit and tourist scene.’

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Deputy Prime Minister Angela Rayner also recently shared her support for the pilot scheme in a post on X (formerly Twitter), writing: ‘Our pubs, restaurants and live music venues are the beating heart of our cultural life, so it’s vital they’re given every chance to survive and thrive.

‘That’s why new trial powers for London will back the capital’s pubs and clubs–boosting the nighttime economy and driving growth.’

However, not everyone in the industry will be on board with this as it could pose several big challenges for hospitality staff.

Vivek Singh, the CEO and executive chef of the Cinnamon Collection shared some examples of potential challenges with Metro, saying: ‘Restaurants already operate within tight trading hours, despite paying rent year-round. Stretching service later into the night may help fill seats, but it also puts pressure on already thin margins.

‘If this becomes the norm, the industry might need to rethink its model — moving toward dynamic pricing, tasting menus, or even adopting an airline-style approach where demand drives value. It’s just another challenge in a long line that restaurants will have to adapt to.’

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